Cuzco Sites to Visit

Cuzco (the Inca word means "navel" or "center") is the ancient capital of the Incas. Legend says that Manco Capac and his sister-consort, Mama Oclio, were born on the Island of the Sun (Isla de Sol) in sacred Lake Titicaca and founded the Inca empire in Cuzco, creating the huancaypata (today's Plaza de Armas) as the symbolic center of the empire. As the most-visited city in Peru, Cuzco (pop. 300,000) serves as the center of the tourist trade.

The Cathedral Plaza de Armas (which has a solid silver altar) is built on the base of the Inca Viracocha Palace, and the church of Santo Domingo (one of the largest Roman Catholic churches in the world) is built over the Temple of the Sun (Coricancha)—excavations on the temple itself continue, despite opposition from the Catholic church. The temple is said to have had 700 gold panels, weighing 5 pounds/2 kilograms each. Another fine church is La Merced, which has a solid-gold monstrance (case for the Host) covered in jewels (the church is open for services in the morning and again late in the afternoon). The complex of La Merced also contains a monastery (women are not allowed into the monastery).

Some of the most important sights in Cuzco include ancient Inca ruins, such as the Tampumachay ritual bath, the Kenko (amphitheater of sacrifices) and the fortresses of Pucara and Sacsayhuaman (whose three ancient central towers—a symbol of the empire—were destroyed by the Spaniards). A sun-worshipping ceremony takes place at these fortresses in June. Also visit the archaeological museum, which has an excellent display of Inca artifacts. But spend some time just walking around town, too: Now and then it feels like it's still ancient. The mix of old with modern, hand-woven with machine-made is fascinating.

When you arrive in Cuzco, buy a visitor's ticket at the tourist office: It will let you into more than a dozen places.

Do find some time to relax in Cuzco's main plaza. It's an enjoyable place to sit and watch the world go by, with a backdrop of Inca and colonial Spanish architecture, and beyond that, the Andes. But don't relax too much—the plaza is also a hangout for pickpockets and petty thieves. Being mugged is a possibility, especially around the market, the train station, in taxis and on the trains in and out of Cuzco. Safe, licensed taxis can be arranged by calling 222-222. The tourist police station is on Calle Saphi. 350 mi/565 km southeast of Lima.